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In the Kachina Peaks wilderness a pair of peaks rise from the desert. They are the sharper and defined Mt Agassiz and the more eroded but higher Humphrey's Peak The trailhead is at 9,500 feet located near a parking area for the ski area. The city of Flagstaff is 7 miles away and offers lodging. Phoenix is 145 miles south.
The area was heavily volcanic, now extinct. Nearby Sunset crater is a much younger volcano and was active about 900 years ago. Humphrey's and Agassiz are actually only fractures left from a massive eruption on this once very active 16,000 foot high volcano. Over 3,000 feet of the mountain vanished when the mountain blew it's top.
This is a beautiful place with large expanses of trees. A forest that is alien but strangely familiar to my own Appalachian woods. Instead of Balsam Fir and Black Spruce you see Fraser or Douglas Fir and Englemann Spruce. Lodgepole pine are common too.
Humphrey's Trail leaves an upper parking lot (follow signs.) It crosses the ski area going under the ski lift across the slope it enters the woods by a sign. Soon you will reach a Kiosk where there is a place to sign in. The path is well graded with mostly moderate inclines. It's easier to follow in summer and fall when there is no snow on the ground. You cross a nice glade and continue through a forest of Douglas Fir.
As elevation increases you'll see the trees change and near treeline lives the Bristlecone Pine, one of the longest living trees. Reaching the ridge you will pass over several "false" summits. Views from the top of the ridge are spectacular, Agassiz will be over your right shoulder. The ridge is rocky and rough in places. Humphrey's summit is spectacular. You can sign the summit register or huddle behind makeshift rockwalls. The weather can move in very fast and to descend you'll be exposed for quite awhile. This is the highest point in Arizona so like Mt Washington, it gets the worst weather.
In winter and early spring there is great glissading down from the ridge. Experienced "Highpointers" rate Humphrey's as one of the Western US "easier" peaks. But that's comparing it to places like Denali, Whitney and Mt Elbert. This is not an easy hike. Come prepared, there is no water to be found most of the year. Elevation gain is 3,200 feet and with the effects of higher altitude most find this moderately strenuous, particularly so during snow season (Nov-April.) It's 4.5 miles one way.
APRIL TRIP REPORT
"Up the Ravine to the Ridge"
I remember when my cousin asked me if I wanted to go along with them to Arizona. They planned to visit the Grand Canyon and then to climb Humphrey's Peak just north of Flagstaff. I'll admit I'm somewhat of a peakbagger and the thought of climbing the highest peak in Arizona excited me.
We made plans for April 2001. We trained for it and an upcoming trip to Colorado in the White Mountains. The meeting in Phoenix went off without a hitch and soon the three of us (Jon Humphrey, Beth Calder and myself) were winding through rush hour traffic north of the city. The rounded peaks surrounding Phoenix looked like something out of "The Flintstones."
After spending several days touring Hopi ruins and the Grand Canyon we arrived in Flagstaff. Driving south that day from the Canyon we'd seen the San Francisco Peaks with high clouds streaming over twin peaks. Humphrey's and Agassiz were painted in white. Beth, Jon and I found a cheap hotel in Flagstaff, visited an area outfitter and got ready.
The outfitter didn't have a map but he explained the trail should be easy to find and follow. We would later on wish for a map. After an early breakfast we drove the short distance to Arizona Snow Bowl ski area and found the parking lot empty. It was about 8am.
In an upper lot was a sign for the Humphrey Trail. I looked up and saw silent ski lifts lining a broad trail. We thought about following the ski slopes up but knew from a Snowbowl map they ended nearer Mt Agassiz, not Humphreys. Snow still clung to the ground, melting fast here at 9,500 feet. The sun was bright and intense already, we lathered up with sunscreen, put on hats and adjusted sunglasses.
We hiked across the open slope, We had some views of Mt Agassiz here.
It was an easy start to what we hoped would be a moderate day. Packed down snow made for easy footing, the six point crampons rode in my pack though, just in case. As we wound up along the wooded ridge there was a place where the trail seemed to split. Packed prints went slightly to the right and another went more straight and to the left. Hmmmm, a fork in the road!
Unknown to us a group of backcountry skiers had packed a trail to some open glens below a ravine. We made a mistake and followed their tracks. The trail was poorly marked here. Very soon we were at the open glen, we saw the turns the skiers made. By staying on the right side of the glen we were able to stay on the somewhat packed down trail. Otherwise you'd sink in at least 12 inches.
After several minutes the views opened up and we could see sunset crater behind. It was becoming hazy and quite warm in the sun. Now the packed down stuff disappeared and we followed a dizzy set of footprints straight up the bowl of the ravine. We would end up calling this the "Calder Hell Trail."
Pretty soon we were plodding along at a much slower pace. We'd each take turns going first. At one point I saw a couple of hikers far ahead near the wall of the ravine. Black studded volcanic rock poked through the melting snow. Small and old Bristle Cone Pine grew here at treeline.
I'd already gone through a quart of water and was working on #2. Already I was wishing for more. The sun sucked the moisture right out of you. We were no longer hiking, it was a fight now and we were determined. Sweat ran blindingly into my eyes as I plodded along. We finally reached the top of the bowl and looked up at the ravine wall.
It was nothing like Tuckermans or some of the bigger ravines back home, not that steep or long. I put my crampons on as the snow here was packed and I didn't want to fall back onto those sharp volcanic rocks! Beth seemed to be faltering a little here, I'll admit I was exhausted myself. Jon seemed to be doing OK.
It was short but hard going, I was glad for the stability of the crampons, Jon and Beth had 10 pointers but I made out OK by crab-stepping. Stop---breathe, go several steps, stop--breathe. We were nearing the top when Beth had a surge of energy (caffeine cliff bars?) and passed us right near the rim of the ridge.
We staggered out onto the dull knife's edge ridge and looked at the beautiful scenery. You could see down into the heart of the mountain where the deep crater was. Several thousand years ago this 16K peak had blown up leaving a fractured ridge and two peaks under 13K. I looked left and saw our objective.
The group ahead of us climbed to the top which we could clearly see for the first time. What we'd been seeing was false summits. The path was again hard and packed, snow and were were pumped at having reached this point. Back there in the mash potato snow of the bowl I was having serious doubts.
We drank in the spectacular views as we traversed the ridge easily. The other group of 2 were just heading down, it was early afternoon by now but the skies were crystal clear, no hint of storms. Breathing hard we reached the roof of Arizona.
Jon Humphrey got there first, we thought he should have the honor since it was "his" mountain, and this was his idea. Humphrey on Humphrey! We took some pictures and gratefully sat down to eat lunch. I nearly drained the last of my water and we still had 4.5 miles at least to go. The sun was incredibly intense and the views were somewhat hazy. We thought we could see the painted desert but not the Grand Canyon. It's one of my top ten favorites because it's the highest peak for a long ways.
We left the summit as three others struggled to the top...had we looked that tired? The traverse across the ridge was a joy, we decided to try and find the real trail down....sort of a loop I guess. Agassiz stood beautifully clear here, we reached a sign that pointed down.
Just a little over a month ago the three of us had glissaded (slid on our butts) down Lowes path of New Hampshires second highest peak (Mt Adams.) It looked like a great place here to do the same. We were wearing windblock type of pants that slide real well. Soon we were giggling like children as the feet vanished beneath our tailbones. We went faster and faster, I used my poles somewhat as brakes.
The fun ended too quick and soon it was back in the mashed potatoes snowy goop. Even going downhill it's exhausting! Sometimes you'd even post-hole up to your hip, drag your body up and repeat the process. We were happy to reach a wide ski trail and decided to follow this down. It was only marginally better.
My water, and Jon's was gone, Beth still had a little. I looked at the snow thirstily but didn't trust it. We had some iced tea in the car, probably warm but thoughts of it kept me moving pretty quickly. We must've been on a bunny slope, not steep at all but plenty long.
We were glad to see the lodge, it had been a great day, tiring but great! We were glad to be off the snow and yes that luke warm tea tasted pretty good!